Friday, July 31, 2009


I have chosen to call my present one-off Skorpion a Skorpion SP.

A few may have noticed in the last update that the Skorpion has new rearsets. As of this month, Gilles Tooling is officially offering rear sets specifically for the Skorpion. Together with Gilles, I put together a set using parts from their well known highest quality line. As with virtually all available models, this one also uses some parts common to many bikes. Each part can be individually reordered if needed. Both shift and brake levers are ball-bearing mounted, each with two bearings. The pegs shown are the new model which is slightly smaller and lighter than the old-style peg, which, however can also be had if desired. In fact all four sets mounted in the last two weeks had the old-style pegs.
The mounting plates are specially for the Skorpion and the model designation is AS31GT MZ01R. The pictures show my prototype set utilizing mounting plates for a Triumph with however did not fit exactly, I remachined them. The MZ01R set has plates machined to fit.
They come complete with all parts and bolts. Included but not shown here is the lever for the engine shaft, also CNC machined from aluminum and with two different possible lengths. As can be seen, the shift lever has three different ratio lengths. Thus, one can set the shift lever from virtually no travel to quite a lot. I have first gear up but of course the "normal" set up with the transmission shaft lever facing down is just as easily possible. The rear sets shown are titanium colored, but black or gold are also available.
Rearsets for the Skorpion Replica will be coming up soon.
These rear sets can be ordered from me or, of course, directly from Gilles.

I have now also fitted the the intended exhaust. As I mentioned in the last posting this has "Devil" performance headers with spring retainers. Mated to this is the LeoVince can for the TT 600 complete with its connecting tube. I made no changes to any of these parts! Together they fit almost perfectly. In the lower photo you can also see the old-style pegs which I had mounted to show. I personally prefer the new ones.

I have continued to prune and trim; after due deliberation I decided to remove the cross-tube above the cylinder head from the frame. Not for weight, I did this to finally be able to easily get at the engine. Now I can remove the cam cover or even the whole cylinderhead and cylinder from the installed engine without even removing the front down-tube, let alone drain the oil.


So easy to work on. And, I can tell no difference in handling without the tube, even with a tank top bag and heavy back pack, coming back from our yearly meeting.

I have in fact removed the head since cutting out the tube.
After the engine was run in, I removed it and took it entirely apart to check for undue signs. There was nothing alarming anywhere. At this point I did reinstall a balancer shaft, albeit a much lightened one and a solid drive gear for it as well.

The often mentioned problems with the woodruff key in the crankshaft are caused for the most part by the spring cushdrive in the drive gear. With the solid gear, the engine runs much smoother.

What else have a I changed?
Hardly worth mentioning, I exchanged the Brembo steel semi-floating rotor seen above for a full-floating cast iron rotor - Brembo of course. I think there is a big difference, at least with the Carbone Lorraine C55 pads I use.

Most Skorpion riders will have been bugged by the poor solution for retaining the gas tank. If "lucky," the bolts cannot be removed at all. While that is not the case with this particular tank, it was with both of my other Skorpions. I decided it was time to come up with something better.
This is a small snap lock from "Camloc." it has a safety catch. I made a piece from 1,5mm stainless sheetmetal to rivit the lock to and screwed this with spacers to the bolt holes of the tank. I cut open the two grommet retainers at the top so that the tank can be simply set in. the lock catches to the edge of the original bracket. (see also picture of rectifier farther down.)
No more bolts to undo or maybe loose; unlatch and pull the tank off - if you have a quick-release connector in the gas line like I do.

I also got very tired of unscrewing the seat - such a pain in the ...
"Camloc" again: I obtained their "Dus" fasteners and am using just one to hold down the seat. Sheet stainless again, i made the bracket for the bottom of the fastener ad rivited it to the seat frame. The fastener bolt with its retaining wahser were then marked out and drill through the seat and pressed in.
Just one half-turn of the latch and the seat can be lifted off.

To position the seat, I simply screwed all four M6 bolts - Poggipolini aluminum screws into the threaded sockets for good. Their tapered heads make fine positioning pins after their holes through the seat were reamed to fit with a tapered reamer. The front two screws can just be seen in the picture below as well as the latch for the tank.

During the yearly meeting my rectifier went bad - for the second time on this bike.

I did manage to limp home, running without the lights and charging the battery every nite.
I have replaced it with the "Charger" from Ignitech, seen at the right. Not a whole lot to see but it is very well made (just like the ignition box mentioned in the last posting) and comes plug and play if desired and specified at ordering. Since I do not have an OEM wiring harness, I got it standard. I simply cut a a piece of 4mm aluminum sheet, drilled it to fit the tabs of the seat frame and tied the rectifier to it with two binders.The rectifier has no mounting holes of its own but it is profusely ribbed. It works great and does not even get hand warm. I can supply both the "Charger" and the "Sparker TCIP4" ignitionbox which I normally supply preprogrammed for the XTZ engine, depending on the state of tuning.

Oh, in the last posting I said I 'd weigh the bike ASAP;
I did at the farmer coop: 152kg ready to ride and gased up.