Last fall, about this time, I did some mild tuning(101mm flat top WISECO, Megacycle 280/2 and Kibblewhites, porting; solid balancer gear, the usual) on a SZR which included modifying the airbox to accept a TM34-B65. Using a standard flexible idle adjuster similar to the one standard to the SZR, I routed the idle through the airbox and out through the left side where it can be reached by a long Phillips screwdriver. Normally, with both the SZR and the Skorpion the idle adjuster is inaccesible as long as the the seat and in the case of the SZR the tank are in place.
I made a one-off exhaust system for it. Using header for the XT660R gotten off eBay, The OEM XT 660 headers are 32mm ID instead of31,5 OD like the original SZR, thus nearly the same as the Termignoni headers that were once available (and which I use myself) I rebent those around the oiltank and made a Y-junction under the engine leding into a larger connecting bend to the Rombo can the owner already had. All joints are slipon.
I also modified the cooling system using YF600 parts (thermostat housing and filler) to be a true two-circuit temperature controlled system, unlike the original (and that of the Skorpion as well) in which the thermostat only reduces the cross-section slightly. Through the modification the engine reaches operating temperature quickly and remains at an almost constant 80º. The original system never reaches a good operating temperature at all except in summer city traffic. It is probably alright in Rome...
Otherwise, the torturing OEM clipons were replaced with PT which I had in my racing kit.
I also built up an engine for a heavily customized Skorpion using a bottom end from me. It has a SZR cluster with shorter 5th gear, solid balance gear, roller chain conversion, roller crank bearing on the right, much lightened balance shaft, lightened cfankshaft with Carillo. The cyclinder got a 101 flattop WISECO, the head was ported, a Megacycle 280/2 an Kibblewhites were already installed. A TM36-B70 is mounted with an oval K&N, there is no airbox. The owner had made up his 2-2 exhaust system utilizing two Akropovic cans.
The owner had also converted the frame to "oil-in-frame" - you can see the return oil line in the photo - and also made a very spartan seatframe. He had fit a tank from a Cagiva MITO to which he laminated a glass racing seat from the classic scene, the whole of this hinged at the front; you can just barely make out the black steel hinge bolted behind the head.
The seat frame carries the entire electric under that seat cowl on two levels. I made the entire wiring loom for this bike, utilizing a SilentHektik electronic fuse box , a 4,5Ah LiFePo battery, an Ignitech Charger rectifier, and an Ignitech Sparker ignition.
Fuse box and ignition are on the top level. The black capped connector hanging down across the blinker in the photo is for the battery charger so the nothing need be removed or opened to charge the battery.
Beneath that, the battery, with its separate connection posts. Everything is connected to the two posts, not directly to the battery which can be removed without disturbing anything else. Next the the posts is the starter solenoid with the shortest possible heavy plus cable from the post and leading straight to the starter. Likewise, the heavy minus lead to the starter is separate from the rest of the harness. Two further 2,5mm2 ground wires (blue) ground the seatframe and the the fork with switches and headlight. the separate fuse older is in that charging lead.
The key lock and ignition switch was mounted on a new, welded-on bracket on the frame on the right side. In front of that, you see the oil temperature pickup fitted to the frame. The ignition switch turns on +12v from the battery to the SilentHektik fuse box and nothing more. That box has 3 8A automatic fuses, the blinker relay and a relay as well. that relay switches +12v for both the ignition box and coil on when grounded by the kill switch. The fuses are for 1) the front end, 2) the tail end and 3) extraneous stuff like the horn. The blowers and thermoswitches have their own inline fuse completely separate from the ignition key. Basically, this entire setup is as I have it in my own Skorpion and ha on my blue bike as well, both with the SilentHektik fuse box. A Silenthektik Motocoil is used together with a BERU PowerCable R118-060.
Personally, I prefer the BERU Ultra spark plug as well. I use a 12-5DU.
This is the finished bike. I was not able to test ride this one so I could not weigh it at the farmer's coop.
over two years ago, I reported on the Gilles rearsets I put together for the Skorpion. Gilles agreed to offer these officially for the Skorpion as AS31GTMZ01. Several sets have been sold including two sets to England.
Apart from these two, I built up another two XTZ engines and an SRX engine as well as redoing a Ducati M900. Don't ask!!!!